Paper Plastic or Steel?

Introduction

Welcome to the Bash Target Systems blog! We plan on using our blog, along with our social media, to help educate our customers on the use of various targets within our target system. You can expect articles to drop on a regular basis. So be sure to check back regularly. We will also announce new articles on social media. So be sure to follow us on Instagram, Facebook, X, and YouTube!

Target Selection

In today’s article, we will be discussing the different targets within our system. We’ll go beyond the ‘what’ and take a look at the ‘when, where, why, and how’ to use them. There are obvious differences between paper / cardboard targets and steel targets. But why would you buy one over the other? Where can you safely shoot one and not the other? Most importantly, how should you use them (optimally) in your training. Let’s dive in!

Paper Targets

Paper, or cardboard, are the most common material or medium used to make targets. They cost the least and have the most application. They can be used indoors or outdoors by shooters of all experience levels, from beginner to world champion. As fun as it is to shoot steel targets, the best shooters in the world still put in plenty of time ‘on paper’ or often ‘cardboard.’ These targets can be used from extremely close range (think shooting from retention) out to distances thousands of yards away, all depending on the training need and experience level of the shooter. They are a must for sighting in your hunting rifle. Plus, they come in various shapes and sizes from the simple bullseye target to human silhouettes or even zombie targets. In addition to all of the above, they are light. That makes them easy to move from range to range (and cheaper to ship!)

Though the most affordable, they do not last long. The more you hit them, the more you have to patch them up or even replace them, depending on if it’s paper or cardboard. They can be used both inside and out, but they don’t fare well in the elements. They are easily damaged by rain and can move around or be blown away in high winds. They do not ‘react’ or provide any visual or audible feedback to the shooter. This is both good and bad, depending on the context. When shooting at distance, it’s hard to know if you hit the target or not without a good spotting scope or simply going “down range” to check for hits. They do come in various shapes and sizes, but they are all 2 dimensional.

Set up for a paper or cardboard target is relatively simple. When training outside, shooters will typically use target stands. These usually consist of a base (on the ground), and some vertical posts (usually wood). The cardboard can be stapled directly to the vertical wood posts. If using a paper target, you’d then glue, tape, or staple it to the cardboard. In some cases, and at some ranges, there are large wooden ‘walls’ to mount your targets too as well. In the future, we’ll be releasing shot videos on your YouTube page on how to use our paper targets with our target stands.  Bash Target Supply Cardboard Targets 

Plastic Targets

Plastic targets are less common but gaining in popularity. Like paper, they can be used indoors and outdoors. They can also be used by shooters of all experience levels. These targets come in all shapes and sizes, from a plastic 2-dimensional target (silhouette or bullseye) to plastic 3 dimensional targets that look like beer bottles and more. They can be used up close and at distance as well. Plastic targets can withstand the elements better than paper and don’t deteriorate in the rain. They also last longer than paper or cardboard. Plastic or chloroplast is used both as a target and a target backer. They are also available in 3D shapes, such as our bottles. These bottles, and other 3D plastic targets are ‘reactive.’ When hit, they move or fall down. This provides the shooter with immediate feedback on whether their shot was accurate. Plus, it’s just more entertaining! They are not as light as paper, but they are still relatively light and easy to transport (and not too expensive to ship).

Though affordable, a plastic target will cost more than paper. They last longer than paper or cardboard, but eventually do need to be discarded. They are getting more common, but still not widely available. Plastic is mostly used outdoors and not commonly used when training indoors. Though entertaining, it can be a disadvantage to shoot a reactive target. For example, if you are shooting one of our plastic bottles off of a stand; it will fall down with one hit. This is not optimal when practicing vital drills such as ‘double taps’ or a ‘Bill drill.’ (We will demonstrate these, along w/other drills, on your YouTube channel later). Using a 3D plastic target at distance is great, because you get immediate feedback on whether you hit the target or not. That said, it’s not optimal for sighting in a rifle at distance. Plus, in most cases, once it falls over, you have togo down range to reset it.

Setting up plastic targets is relatively straightforward. If it’s a 2D target, or target backer, it is commonly stapled to a vertical wooden post that’s mounted to a base or stand, similar to a cardboard target. If you are shooting a 3D target, such as one of our bottles, you can mount it on a horizontal post so it falls off when hit. Or, you can hang it using one of our stands and some string/rope. That gives you the best of both worlds: a reactive target that you don’t have to reset after hitting! 

Steel Targets

As the name implies, steel targets are made of steel. The steel itself should be either AR500 or AR550 certified. This simply means it’s a hardened steel. Hardened steel targets last longer. More importantly, they are much safer to shoot! I wouldn’t personally shoot a target that wasn’t AR500 or AR550 unless it was at least 100 yards away (more on that later). Steel targets are most often used outdoors. I have never seen them used indoors, but I know it can be done (just not commonly). They obviously can withstand the elements better than paper / cardboard targets and they are NOT going to blow away in the wind. They can be used relatively close, depending on the ammunition used and steel itself (thickness & hardness). They are most used in defensive or tactical pistol or rifle training but are becoming more and more common at distance as well. They come in many shapes and sizes but are usually a ‘gong’ (or circle) or a silhouette. Steel targets generally fall into 2 categories: they are either static/stationary (they don’t fall down), or reactive (they fall down when hit). Regardless of what steel you are shooting, it will provide you with IMMEDIATE feedback. It will either fall, move a little, or make an audible “ding!” This feedback can improve the training value and it’s just more fun!

Steel targets are the least affordable, due to the cost of the material and the cost to ship. They are also the least portable because of the weight and the need for a sturdier base and heavier hardware + wood. They are also not safe to shoot at extremely close ranges unless you are using frangible ammo, which is NOT very common. So, for pistol training, steel is more often used by intermediate to advanced shooters who have put in the work up close on paper. Of course, there are exceptions, but that’s the norm. Regardless of distance, steel targets do have a chance of causing rounds or pieces of rounds (frag) to ricochet. It should also be noted that sometimes the shooter will become fixated on the steel target just to watch it fall. This can lead to the shooter to unconsciously lowering the gun (and the sights), which naturally leads to lower hits. It’s also not as good for sighting in hunting or sniper rifles (or any rifle) at distance unless you have a way to mark where exactly it hit and how to adjust your sights or optic.  

Set up for steel targets all depends on the type of target you have, the target stand, and the hardware. This commonly consists of a heavy base or stand, a vertical post, and some brackets or hardware to mount the steel. It’s crucial that your stationary or static steel be mounted so that it’s angled downward at roughly a 20-degree angle. This will ensure that most of the bullet fragmentation is directed into the ground (and not back at YOU or others on the range!). For reactive steel (the steel that falls or moves), it does not need to be mounted at a downward angle because much of the energy is absorbed by the movement of the target. That said, you should always be cognizant of the direction of the target and possibility of fragmentation ‘bouncing’ off the target. Always follow both the manufacturers’ recommendations AND range specific safety rules when setting up and shooting steel targets! Our steel target systems include instructions for set-up and use. We will also be releasing videos on your YouTube page covering these topics. 

Selecting the Right Target

Target selection depends on a number of factors. Where will you be training? Is it indoors or outdoors? Are you even allowed to bring your own targets? Are you able to store targets at the range? Or will you have to bring them home with you after training? What is your skill or experience level? Are you shooting pistol, rifle, or both?

Personally, I use a combination of ALL the above! Here are some use cases for each:

 Paper Targets: 

Plastic Targets: 

Steel Targets: 

Safety

It goes with-out saying, but always follow the 4 basic safety rules when handling of shooting your firearm. You should also know and follow the safety rules specific to your local range. It’s also extremely important to know and follow the manufacturers’ safety rules for set-up, inspection, and use of your targets. When in doubt, ask questions!

Steel Target Safety

Not all steel is equal. High quality steel targets are made from a hardened steel commonly known as AR500 or AR550. These hardened steel targets last longer and are SAFER to shoot. Beware of cheap steel targets. They are prone to ‘spalling’ which refers to flakes or fragments of the steel target being broken or falling off when the bullet contacts the steel plate. These flakes, and even pieces of the bullet itself, can bounce or ricochet in any direction. If it’s a static/stationary target, and not oriented at a 20-degree downward angle, this ‘frag’ can bounce back to the shooter or others on the range.

The ricochet of bullet, bullet pieces, or even target material is always possible. This risk is mitigated (not avoided) by the following: 1) Using AR500 or AR550 certified steel, 2) Using the correct steel target for the rifle or pistol caliber you are shooting, 3) Setting up the steel correctly. Example: static steel target should be oriented at a 20-degree downward angle to direct any ricochet towards the ground, and 4) Following the manufacturers’ minimum safe distance requirements for the steel target and firearm type (example: no closer than 10 yards on our Red, 5/16” pistol targets.)

Most importantly of all: always ensure you are wearing appropriate eye protection that provides ballistic protection against fragmentation. Also ensure all others on the range, including instructors, RSO’s, or others in proximity are wearing ballistic eye protection as well. We recommend wearing your ‘eye pro’ in all shooting/training situations. It’s just more important when shooting steel!

Summary

In summary, there are now better options than paper plates or aluminum beer cans. These options include Paper/cardboard, Plastic, or Steel. Each of these target options has their ideal use case, along with their advantages and disadvantages. It all depends on the training objectives and the environment or range type. No one is better than the other. They all have their place, and they can all be part of a well-rounded training program. Most importantly, be safe. Follow the four basic firearms safety rules. Follow the range specific safety rules and be sure to follow the manufacturers’ instructions on target set-up and use. If you are unsure, don’t be afraid to ask questions!

Thanks for checking out our new blog. Be sure to follow us on Instagram, Facebook, X. We’ll announce when new blog articles are published on these sites. Also be sure to follow your YouTube and TikTok pages for video content.